Roving Reporter in Perth
by Christine Davey
Friday, November 29, 2002

In 1962, while the American astronaut John Glenn was orbiting the planet, Perth said hello. In homage to the space pioneer, Western Australia's capital put on the lights. All of them. "I can see the outline of a town, very bright," Glenn reported to Mission Control. He dubbed Perth the "City of Lights", which placed it firmly on the international map.

By 1983, when an entrepreneur called Alan Bond won a boat race known as the America's Cup, Perth had become a wealthy metropolis, unconcerned with its geographical isolation from the rest of Australia. (To put that into perspective, Perth is closer to Singapore than Sydney.) At the WACA today, in the next round of the Ashes series, there wasn't an astronaut or shipbuilder to be seen, but the City of Lights was more than happy to sparkle.

The WACA has been through a rejuvenation, with over A$12million spent on major improvements. The once-antiquated venue is now, according to cricket administrators, a state-of-the-art facility with first-class amenities for all. The punters seem to agree. By the start, more than 22,000 people had crammed in, the best first-day attendance for any of Perth's 30 Tests. The stands, grassy knolls, corporate boxes and pavilions were full to bursting. "We thought we only had a capacity of 21,000," said a spokesperson. "It just goes to show how wrong you can be."

The WACA sound system has also undergone a re-jig. As the strains of U2's It's A Beautiful Day and Alex Lloyd's You Were Amazing filtered across the pitch at a decibel level that would have made even Spinal Tap envious, you realised just what makes Perth unique. It's loud, laid-back and justifiably arrogant. Cricket fans found such definitions complimentary: "We know we're wonderful and we live in a wonderful place," said Michael from Subiaco. "We're proud to be on the other side of the country to the rest of you. We've got the best lifestyle and the best weather. Once you come here, you never want to leave."

His wife Suzanne says that Perthites also have the best hair. In support of the Australian team, she'd dyed hers fluorescent green. No, Perth isn't a place for the fashion-shy. "It's a fabulous colour and of course I did it to help Steve and the boys," she said. "But really I just want to get my mug on a TV camera." Note to those wishing to hide their collective lights under bushels: give Perth a miss. It's a faint-hearted-free-zone.

But Test cricket in Perth isn't all about bluster and brashness. There's a genteel, reflective side to this sport-watching lark. As the Barmy Army set up shop to the customary chant of "We are the England", Mary from Adelaide was concentrating on her book. In the shadow of the scoreboard, she was ripping through Pride And Prejudice like there was no tomorrow. "I'll watch the cricket in a minute," she said. "I'm at the part where Mr Darcy proposes to Elizabeth. Don't interrupt me and don't tell me what happens in the end."

While a group of Aussie supporters complete with "Athletes in disguise" T-shirts were unfolding their "'roids are rotten Haydo" banner, the painter Jocelyn Galsworthy was organising her work space. She makes a living travelling the world recording cricket matches in pastels and oils. It's a tough job, but someone's got to do it.

"I've got the best seat in the house and the best job going," she says, perching on her high chair, adjusting her easel and shade umbrellas. "I complete one painting per match and fill in the actual players when I get home." According to Jocelyn, she's never irritated by the noise and banter of the crowd. In fact, it's as much a part of the creation as the artistic form and content: "I try to capture the atmosphere as well as the game itself, and the light here is a dream. Australia is a brilliant place to do this. Australians love their cricket, and it's so vibrant and warm and inspiring. There is such a spirit here."

By mid-afternoon, as the breeze known locally as the Fremantle Doctor has arrived to cool things down, the WACA was in exhibitionist overdrive. "We know the English team hasn't got a hope," said John from Birmingham, shifting his sight-line slightly to take in the blonde wearing the "I've got attitude - so what!" T-shirt. "But it's a fantasy come true for me to be here. It's unbelievable."

So a quick note to those wishing to comprehend cricket out here in the wild wild west. When John Glenn called this place very bright, he wasn't kidding.

Christine Davey is a freelance writer based in Melbourne, Victoria.

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