Monday, November 19, 2001 Rockets have been raining over Mumbai ever since Nasser Hussain's wary men landed in India last Wednesday, and there has been some serious bombardment. It's Diwali time in Mumbai, and though festivities have been somewhat muted this year, there have been enough fireworks to dazzle a first-time tourist. There is no better way to blend in than to take part in a major festival: soak up a bit of the atmosphere, take a swig of the culture and you soon feel at home.

Wisden's own Tanya Aldred, who is as new to India as most of the players, was on Marine Drive, Mumbai's bustling promenade along the Arabian sea, on Thursday night, firecrackers in hand. She mingled merrily with the crowds, launched rockets from an empty soft-drink bottle and sipped coconut water with great delight. It was the best November 14 of her life, she chimed, as she lit another cracker. She still hasn't spotted a cow on Mumbai's streets, though.

England's cricketers can hardly be expected to frolic on the streets, but let's hope they weren't cooped up in their hotel rooms, eyes fixed to their portable DVD players.

Nasser Hussain hasn't put a foot wrong since he landed here. From the moment he strode out at the airport and broke through the security cordon to shake a few eager hands (a token gesture, but it needed to be made), he has said the right words, done the right things and the Indian public, who were smarting in indignation at the dithering of some of the England party, are now warming to Hussain and his men.

In terms of logistics and conditions, India is a tough country to tour. But the drudgery of the journeys, the heat, dust and crowds and the fear of the unknown can easily be overcome by eagerness and a sense of wonder. It is important that negativism is banished swiftly and it is evident that Hussain's men have crossed their first barrier with ease.

They will miss the pace of Andy Caddick, but frankly, we can all do without his whining. He has emerged as the prime moaner of the England cricket team and some of his newspaper columns during the Ashes series had to be read to be believed. In Caddick's world, but for bad luck, bad weather and bad umpiring, England would have beaten Australia comfortably.

Don't be surprised if Hussain gets an extra round of applause at the Tests. The Indians are a possessive people and they take immense pride in the success of their diaspora. VS Naipaul may never have held an Indian passport, but, to millions of literate Indians, he is as Indian as Salman Rushdie or Vikram Seth, and his Nobel Prize was cause for much celebration in the Indian media. Hussain does not consider himself any less English than Michael Atherton, but to a lot of Indians, his captaincy means something. There will be plenty of goodwill for him on the tour and though the crowds will turn up to see India win, there will also be a few prayers for Hussain's personal success.

India is a big country with a big heart. It knows how take care of its guests. England must hope that India's cricketers share the generosity of their fellow countrymen .

Sambit Bal is India editor of Wisden.com. More Sambit Bal
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