Bob Woolmer fills you in on Port Elizabeth, where South Africa play India in the second Test, which starts on Friday Wednesday, November 14, 2001

A sign at Port Elizabeth airport screams Welcome To The Friendly City. But what the sign doesn't tell you is that Port Elizabeth is also known as The Windy City - which made my first experience of landing at the airport there a horrendous one. In the summer the wind can be so strong that it's difficult just walking into the hotel where both teams and all the press usually stay.

The wind can have a big effect on the cricket too. It changes almost daily and drifts in from the sea, over the scoreboard, and somehow - even on the flattest of tracks - greens up the pitch and encourages swing bowling. Even if you are 150 for 1, watch out, because it can all go wrong very quickly.

There was a famous game here against Australia in March 1997. South Africa batted first and scored 209 after being 95 for 7. I remember it well because the wind changed at tea and Brian McMillan and Dave Richardson put on a big stand. When Australia replied, the wind came back to haunt them and they were dismissed for 108.

But the wind then turned around again, and overnight South Africa had a seemingly impregnable lead of 180-odd with 10 wickets in hand. Not so. The wind turned again and from 87 for 0, South Africa collapsed to 168 all out. Set 271 to win, Australia looked doomed at 23 for 2. So the howling gale duly returned and despite some valiant bowling Mark Waugh was able to steer them to a famous last-innings victory.

You might think the wind is just a myth, but a year later West Indies suffered as it blew constantly over the scoreboard.

Like most Test grounds in South Africa, St George's Park has been given a facelift. The pavilion used to be square of the wicket but is now head-on, and the ground slopes down towards the pavilion and the press box. The view from the sea end is the best I have experienced on a cricket field. You feel as though you are actually taking part in the game. The practice facilities are excellent.

The crowd varies in size from year to year, but they are very knowledgeable - and not that rude. The students can be rowdy after a heavy day's studying, and they normally park close to the beer outlet at the famous duckpond end under the new stand. The ground can feel very cosy when it's full.

Then there is the famous band who sing Stand By Me when South Africa need to take a wicket - or take one themselves. They have increased their repertoire and are fun to listen too. Purists find them irritating, but they have become an integral part of the ground.

The pitch has been a snake pit in some Tests and a batting paradise in others. Much depends on the grass left on the surface and the weather before the game. The bounce is often variable and it tends to stay on the low side as the game progresses. The groundstaff will tell you that they are working on getting pace and bounce. The pitch takes some turn, but it does not bounce very high which tends to make the spinners less effective.

The authorities won't want a three-day game so every effort will be made to keep it flat. If that's the case we might see Sachin Tendulkar at his best. But the bowler who has really done well here is Allan Donald, with his skiddy bounce. Hooking is fraught with danger.

Off the field, you cannot visit Port Elizabeth without swimming with the dolphins or eating at the Ranch restaurant, which specialises in wonderful steaks. The beachfront is picturesque and this is a lovely seaside area, especially for young families. The cricket will be fierce and fascinating and the comfort levels better than average for the spectators - but make sure you bring your own food.

Bob Woolmer is director of coaching for Warwickshire CCC and the former coach of South Africa. He is a member of the editorial board of Wisden Cricket Monthly, and has just been appointed ICC's first high performance manager. More Bob Woolmer
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