The banner that hung outside the pavilion in Faisalabad proclaimed in large red letters "Welcome to the Manchester of Pakistan". Faisalabad definitely seems to have an identity problem for it is a city currently named after a Saudi King and was previously known as Lyallpur, after the former Lieutenant Governor of the Punjab, Sir James Lyall.

In Faisalabad, according to one guidebook, there is "nothing of interest to the foreigner". This is probably accurate, however it is a perfectly pleasant place to watch England just about hold their own at cricket on a slow, spinning wicket. However, what the guidebooks don't mention is the quality of the ice-cream on offer in Faisalabad – delicious tutti-frutties and chocolate-chip flavours. The city should think about reinventing itself from the 'Manchester of Pakistan' to the 'ice-cream capital of the sub-continent'.

It was only possible to sample Faisalabad's ice-cream delights' after the sun had gone down, as the Holy Month of Ramadan began during my stay. This is a time when all Muslims observe a strict fast from food, water, and even cigarettes between sunrise and sunset. Exceptions are made for the sick, the young, and the elderly, or pregnant women, travellers and, apparently, international cricketers. It is a period when Muslims cleanse both their mind and body and observe what it is like to be hungry and without food for a period of time. During this period 'alms' are given to the poor as those better off empathise with the hunger of the poorer section of the community.

Far from being "no fun at all" as one guidebook describes travelling in Pakistan during Ramadan, it has proved to be an interesting and probably healthy experience. There are no restaurants open during daylight hours, but food can easily be bought from bakeries and small shops. One such bakery near the ground proved to be haven for English supporters during the game, where sandwiches and biscuits were consumed behind closed doors.

There is a definite change in atmosphere and pace of life during this holy month. The minutes leading up to sunset are a fascinating time to be on the streets. It is a period of great frenzy as everyone rushes from street stalls buying up food for the evening meal. The restaurants are full of hungry diners anxiously looking at their watches, willing the sun to drop below the horizon. The moment of sunset is marked by a loud air raid-like siren that blares out from the mosques. As a foreigner on the streets you will be inundated with offers to share in this first 'snack' after the day of fasting. This celebration carries on well into the night with music blaring and endless meals being eaten.

The nocturnal noise and the early morning wakeup calls for breakfast are the only drawbacks of Ramadan. Every night I have been woken up at 4am by some kindly Pakistani warning me it is my last chance for food for the next 11 hours. On most occasions I have ignored the persistent knocks as I find the thought of curry at 4am a little unappealing.

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